tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14144546740372878752012-02-16T18:41:40.324+01:00Coeur d'Avignonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04847949519436654423noreply@blogger.comBlogger441100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1414454674037287875.post-14858960493729321912011-06-12T23:29:00.001+02:002011-06-12T23:33:13.363+02:00

If you are curious to what might have happenned to this blog : A baby. In september, 2010, our son was born and ... I found  no time to write. Among the other changes in our house, the refurbishment of two studios, adding mezzanines. We do have vacancies in august, so come and check out Avignon super ambience and monuments ! 

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Do you remember this caustic remark from  Lonely Planet's travel  bibles ? It was probably in the section on why it was important to buy the very last issue of their thick and juicy  guidebooks. Indeed,  this warning applies to Avignon's restaurants. Case in point :  Les Artistes, on Place Crillon. Once a great favorite of ours,  it has lost most of its appeal ; althought the chef is still the

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Urgently needed : Some help in the daily chores, and some baby sitting. We are a binational , bicultural couple. My wife, aged 22, a hairdresser, is from Madagascar, but speaks fluent french. I am 49, a international consultant, and native french.  (The man on the photograph is NOT me, but a costumed figurant in a historic event  in Provence)  ! We live right in the center of Avignon, a lively

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Good food,  nice people, lovely landscape, intriguing local stories, a degree of conviviality at night :  Avignon has all of this.  We can also advise you on special interest trips : - For instance, for the book enthusiasts :  Second-hand and specialist bookshops, itinerant  book markets and public libraries  (In nearby Carpentras, the Inguimbertian library ( l'Inguimbertine) is not to be missed

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"Performance can be seen by non francophone spectators" : this mention figures  about every fifth item of the 400 pages-thick Avignon's theater  festival programe. This illustrates a fact : many theater performances are actually dance-drama, circus or music shows and a limited grasp of french is necessary to enjoy them. The street performers are not counted among those, and the clowns, acrobats,

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While I was working, in a previous life, as a consultant for a governement agency in Madagascar,  putting together the data for  the WorldHotelink website of this country, I became aware of the different meanings of " sustainable tourism", depending on one's cultural background.  The WHL team ( Mostly anglo-saxon, and living in developed countries)  was expecting us to put more emphasis on large

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Viva la Commedia The world's largest theater festival opened today in Avignon. More than one thousand differend theater companies ( from one-person shows to huge performing teams) vie for your attention in the streets and  venues of the city - schools, shops, gym rooms etc being  all converted in makeshift theaters. An estimate of five  thousand performers enjoy the city athmosphere, and their

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A stone’s throw from the crowds munching a standard meal on Place de l’Horloge or in the tight maze of pedestrian streets, the Hermitage restaurant enjoys one of the most carefully laid open air dining area in Avignon, rue Figuière, a very central square shadowed by the fresh walls of the church of St. Didier and ancient plane trees. The chef is from Avignon, but inspired by his early career

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The Figaro daily http://www.lefigaro.fr/conjoncture/  annouced today that France, first world tourist destination by the number of visitors, ranks only third in revenue behind the United States and Spain. "Spain overtook us ten years ago. Ever since are we losing market share, "says Christian Mantei of Atout France, the country's tourism promotion bureau. Last year, these revenues accounted

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The only English language bookshop in Avignon is located in the eastern part of  the walled-in city. Walk east for about a mile from the Popes's palace along the long and winding Carreterie street, past the derelict-looking church spire of the Augustinians, and you shall reach a lovely bookshop modestly hidden behind a garage type door, painted blue.  It boast a rather large stock of books, both

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Could it be an heritage from Papal times and so-called “tuscan ways”? Or an influence of the masive influx of actors during the festival ? Avignon is a gay friendly city. Even in winter time, is not uncommon to see same-sex kissing or holding hands, but the summer season brings a party mood to the city.Yesterday the second local gay pride parade was a succes, with a street parade of several 

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Just for fun , and  inspired  by the web site concierge .com famous do's and dont's, we compiled a list of ten dont’s – and what to do instead, in a region that the shrinked euro makes affordable again. 1-Wear hiking shoes in the streets.  Look  : you are visiting towns and villages that have streets since Roman times.  By now their pavement is perfectly smooth and your heavy walking shoes

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Tarascon's royal castle is a massive dungeon, built in white stone for the Good King Rene,  count of Anjou and king of Provence right on the banks of the Rhone river, just outside the city walls. Among the curiosities  of the building, in a remarkable state of conservation, are the graffitis of erstwhile prisonners, many of them with english-sounding names.The place served as a Naval prison,

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When Prosper Merimee,  learned and fashionable writer of the 19th century drawed his famous list of remarkable French monuments, around 1840, item number One was Mount Saint Michel in Normandy. That extraordinary  pyramid of stone defying both the tides and the English certainly deserved the honour of being listed in the inventory that later directly inspired the French National Heritage listing.

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There are some brand new beds in the one-bedroom flat available for rent this season. yet something in the adjacent wall  of the master bedroom may surprise you. You will notice the presence of various cabalistic symbols on the stones, called " peiro signado" in  provencal :  forget about Nostradamus and  Da Vinci code, these are the marks of the Companions, or  stone cutters. They were paid by

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Quieter-than-usual spring season in Avignon : the no-fly zone extended over Europe, and more importantly, the long TGV (superfast trains linking the city to Paris and beyond London and Amsterdam) strike, all but isolated Avignon last week.  I could not resist  publising this 1947 Times article, from the 1947 April 14 issue, Atlantic Oversea edition,  page 24, found in an old copy sold for 20

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That's latin for " Rooms to let".  I don't now how that title will rate with the search engines such as google or yahoo, but indeed we have nice rooms to let in the city of the Popes, a mediaeval wonder in the midst of Provence. If you comme at all to Avignon, you should stay right in the gothic-era city center of this former world capital.  You will undoubtely enjoy the visit of the Pope's

Coeur d'Avignonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04847949519436654423noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1414454674037287875.post-39778595261222871542010-03-24T13:59:00.001+01:002010-03-25T08:41:06.511+01:00

Le Figaro " story of the day" is a front page feature in the influential Paris daily.  This morning, Baroness Ashton was quoted as answering to an angry French cabinet minister that yes, she needed to improve her French ; and that she was to spend this summer a week near Avignon in a language school. The school  she elected  is apparently "Millefeuille", which offers residential French language

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Laurence Wylie,  eminent teacher for whom a chair was created in Harvard, spend a year in Luberon with his wife and young kids. He didn't stay in a million-euro mas with a pool and a couple of 4WDs, bought on a huge consultant's or lawyer's salary, but during a sabbatical, on a small university grant, in an icily-cold rented village house. It all happened sixty years ago, and the Wilies didn't

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The Ceccano Municipal Library is housed in a huge, unassailable, pale limestone palace, the only gothic residential structure in Avignon which does not pale in comparison with the Palace of the Popes. This formidable dungeon built during the papacy of Benedict XII actually predates the famous Palace ; it was the "livrée" of cardinal Annibale de Ceccano. It holds about 50000 books, 7000

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During the July Theater Festival Avignon is a different sort of place. People say this is the worlds biggest theater festival, and it might well be true. But most importantly, this extraordinary time of the year gives the city a unique, youthfull atmosphere that lingers on for many months. Actualy there are two festivals at the same time : Rather like on Broadway, there is a "In" festival in

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He is Frederic Mistral, the father of the "felibre" movement of writers, publishers and poets, based in Avignon and which revived the provencal language in the second half of the nineteen century . One of his most notable followers, the Marquess Folco de Baroncelli-Javon, took a lasting fancy for the american hero and it's Wild West Show. In a fascinating book : " Cock and Bull Stories:

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Avignon is surrounded by hills. Tiny mountains, like les Alpilles, which tend to keep snow longer than the plains. Here are a few photographs of les Baux de Provence, a somewhat overtouristed place in the summer, but which seems to have reverted to its pre-war state of quiet abandon. The sky is often incredibly blue, road conditions are back to normal, the temperature is at least five degrees

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Both these cities, some 25 kilometers from Avignon, are " villages perchés", fortress-like heaps of house cluttered on a hill top and down its rapid slopes ; Gordes is world famous, of course, one of the prettiest villages in Luberon ; but Venasque, facing Mount Ventoux, and adorned with a very ancient church is quite interesting. The road between them passes by the cistercian Abbey of Senanque,

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Friday night was unusually cold and quiet. Yesterday, Avignon woke up under a thick, frozen blanket of snow. A rare event in the city of the Popes, noted for its dry climate. Kids were playing - some of them even skiing- on the sloped Place du palais des Papes. The snow was so heavy that it broke some tree branches. The inner-city streets are still covered with it after 24 hours ; no municipal

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An austere looking XIX century building with a superb location, just north of the Popes Palace and Rocher des Doms once was the infamous Saint Anne jail. Locals remember the time when the neighbourhood was resounding of the shouts of prisonners over the wall chatting with their visiting families in the streets. Nowadays the city jail has been moved to Le Pontet, a suburb in the north of Avignon

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Do you remember the icon-illustrated list that used to figure on the back of every plane ticket in the last century ? It went more or less thus: ‘Items that can be carried free of charge by passengers : an umbrella or walking-stick, a small camera and pair of binoculars, a hat, an attache case, a fully collapsible wheelchair, infant's food for consumption en route, and a reasonable amont of

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To my surprise, our Saint Didier parish ( photo) was in the local news the other day ( in the daily La Provence, 26 nov. 2009 edition), because of a petition circulating among the residents in order to police some of the street dwellers. Avignon benefits from a climate so hospitable that a number of people live in the street. Those SDF or street dwellers sometimes have their own place to sleep

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A fixture of any french town : " le meilleur boucher de la ville". Usually, the distinction varies according to taste. The best meat in Avignon is said unanumously to be la Boucherie Saint Didier, an efficient shop rue des trois faucons, 80 meters from home, apparently run by a family of redheads from... Italy. They have excellent beef from the Massif Central mountains, lovely lamb from

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Serious wine. Heavy, heady, colorful. Ancient as the Popes, keeps for ages, yet mature and drinkable only a few months after the harvest. The Côte du Rhône are arguably the epitome of french wines, (Some say life in Paris is hardly bearable without the influx of Côte du Rhone poured at the counter of every corner café) and Chateauneuf du Pape is the epitome of Côte du Rhone. Ideal terrain,

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post edited pending contacts with the company.

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Autumn is back. It is one of the nicest time of year in Provence. Markets are full of fruits, and while few mornings are misty, all lights are subdued, quieter, yet still vibrant with infused lights. Great weather for painting, for country walks. We had, so far, remarkably few rain this autumn, which is just as well, because during rainstorms the adjoining building's gutters (yes, the lovely

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Shame on me. I learnt only recently that the large oil painting of this name, painted in 1907 by Pablo Picasso, which portrays five nude ladies, two of them wearing seemingly african masks, has nothing to do with Avignon's beauties. The damsels were sex-workers in a brothel on carrer d'Avinyó, a red light district in Barcelona. The work - dubbed "le bordel d'Avignon", or simply "le bordel" by

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The large, sloped square in front of the Palais des Papes in Avignon is adorned with a large, handsome building, surprisingly baroque in inspiration in front of the gothic Palace, and almost windowless : la Monnaie des Papes , the Pope's mint.This building, dating from the XVII century, was later converted into a "conservatoire", or school for the performing arts. The conservatoire Olivier

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To celebrate the 700th anniversary of the coming of the Popes in Avignon, the local Petit Palais Museum and the famous Pinacoteca Nazionale di Siena in Italy, together organize a fascinating exhibition focusing on the legacy of Simone Martini. This Sienese painter died in 1344 in Avignon, where he followed the Papal court. It is a pleasure to wander among the gold covered panels, gleaming like

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When we say our building is "historic" it's not merely because it is old, but because it was part of the ancient hospital Saint Antoine. The handsome hospital chapel next door dates from the thirteenth century. The ground floor of our building is noted for a great stone arch which was probably part of the hospital. (a symmetrical one is said to have straddled the tiny rue St Antoine to the left

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A greener and more sensible way to enjoy your holiday in Avignon than driving or flying into town from the UK is to come by train. Eurostar offers a direct weekly Saturday service to the heart of Provence from 11 July to 12 September 2009. Prices can be as low as 99£ return or even 56 for the under 26. Eurostar journeys are carbon neutral, ( the company compensate it's CO2 emissions, apparently

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Today the vignerons, french for winemakers, of the famous Cotes du Rhone production area have been staging, like they do every year, le ban des vendanges, a procession that comes complete with medieval costumes, jugglers, acrobats, donkeys and heavily embroidered banners. The procession follows the main street, 50 meters from our building, anf ends at the rocher des Dom, the huge monolith on

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While staying in downtown Avignon ( the locals say " intra-muros" as if the Popes were not really gone and Latin still the official langage), you will certainly be tempted to indulge in the pleasures of the mouth : lots of restaurants ( of note, the Cid and the Opera café on the Place de l'Horloge, the Artists on place Crillon, the pleasant Pearl on place Saint-Didier, and the friendly Jasmin

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The mediterranean coast in the south of France could hardly be called a hidden treasure : hordes of vacationers are pouring yearly either East of the Rhone valley towards the Cote d'Azur ( St Tropez, Hyeres, Cannes ...), or West towards the Languedoc coast (Montpellier, Cap d'agde, Grande Motte).Avignon is located at the intersection of the highways to these well know destinations. Yet if you

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Avignon is a great starting point for walks in the lovely countryside of Provence. The city is at the center of an extensive local bus network (the bus station is minutes away from your flat). I love walking and strongly suggest you take walks in nearby Alpilles ( Saint Remy with its Roman ruins and les Baux de Provence are only 25 km away) or even closer in the " Montagnette", stopping at the

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Shopping in and around Avignon for bric-a-brac and furniture is a great experience. First you must try the antiques shop in the posh city streets like Joseph Vernet or Grande Fusterie ... big bucks, but great stuff for sale and very knowledgeable sellers. Then you shoudnt miss the "brocantes", weekly events like the pleasant open air markets in Villeneuve les Avignon or Isle sur la Sorgue,

Coeur d'Avignonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04847949519436654423noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1414454674037287875.post-64482210169131613892009-08-08T00:41:00.002+02:002010-02-26T19:36:33.666+01:00

For rent, daily or weekly rates : Charming studios and Rooms In this historic building, a lovely XVII Century STUDIO in the Provence style. . Enjoy the best part of Avignon, minutes away from the Popes palace, the shopping district and the many museums. Bathroom with bath, kitchenette, wholly furnished. The owners live upstairs and will make sure your stay is enjoyable ; Also available, rooms

Coeur d'Avignonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04847949519436654423noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1414454674037287875.post-62674787006344430112009-08-07T23:57:00.012+02:002010-02-26T19:34:49.054+01:00

In our humble opinion, Avignon will be the highlight of your visit to Provence, that sunny region in the south-east of France. Why go to Provence at all anyway? Because the weather is good, splendid ; much sunnier than in the rest of France and even northern Italy. But also because : - the food is superb, based on fresh produce, tasty but simple recipes. - lodgings are  better than the french

Coeur d'Avignonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04847949519436654423noreply@blogger.com